The coach follows the east shore of the Lustrafjord to Urnes, where a stave church has stood since about 1130 — the oldest in Norway, and on UNESCO's World Heritage List since 1979. Its north portal carries the carving that gave a whole style of Viking art its name.
The group divides: half go inside the church with a guide while the other half watch boats being built by hand at the Ornes shipyard, then the halves swap. The ferry from Ornes carries you, coach and all, across to Solvorn, and the road home runs up the west shore. Five hours, and both sides of the fjord.