The Sognefjell road crosses the roof of Norway at 1,434 metres, between glaciers and bare rock, and drops down to Lom on the far side. Lom stave church has served the village for more than eight centuries; the Norwegian Mountain Museum, a short walk away, tells the story of the people who farmed, hunted and climbed up here.
Lunch is in Lom. Then the road takes you back over the pass, with the light now on the other side of the peaks. Coaches run in two shifts half an hour apart, so neither the church nor the museum is ever crowded.