A maxitaxi takes you up the Fortun valley to Turtagrø, the old mountaineers' hotel where Norwegian climbing began, and to the Skjolden Explore mountain office beside it. Sixteen e-bikes wait there.
The road is gravel and it climbs — fifteen kilometres, past 1,250 metres — with the peaks of the Hurrungane closing in on both sides. The motor helps; you still pedal. At the top, Styggedalsbreen comes down to meet its own lake, and the guide walks you out to a viewpoint near the glacier front.